Golden, fried latkes may be the traditional food of Hanukkah, but nutritionally they offer little cause for celebration.

Classic versions of these savory potato pancakes usually are fried in as much as a cup of oil, a reference to the oil that kept the eternal flame burning in the temple of Jerusalem.

But it is possible to make a crispy potato latke rich in symbolism but easy on the oil.

This recipe for oven-crisped golden potato latkes adds a short baking step to the standard pan frying method and yields results that are just as satisfying, with significantly less fat and fewer calories.

Cutting fat, however, requires making up the lost flavor elsewhere in the recipe.

Which is why this recipe calls for Yukon Gold, rather than the more traditional russet or baking potatoes. These yellow-flesh potatoes have a rich, creamy flavor and a color that fools the eyes into thinking they are laced with butter.

Onions are mixed with the potatoes in most latke variations, and here shallots are added to boost flavor even more.

Extra moisture gets wrung out of the potato mixture using a clean dishtowel or piece of cheesecloth. This step helps the latkes brown better, even when using less oil. It also keeps them from turning soggy and falling apart in the pan.

For the frying, this version uses only a few teaspoons of healthy canola oil per batch. Ten minutes in a very hot oven finishes crisping the outsides while leaving the insides moist and tender.

For convenience, the latkes can be prepared a day or two ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. To reheat, bake at 375 F for 10 to 15 minutes, or until hot and crisp.

Serve oven-crisped golden potato latkes plain or with a dollop of the traditional toppings of sour cream and apple sauce.

OVEN-CRISPED GOLDEN POTATO LATKES

Start to finish: 45 minutes

Servings: 12

1-1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, grated

1 medium sweet onion, grated (3/4 cup)

2 medium shallots, grated (1/4 cup)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 large egg, lightly beaten

8 teaspoons canola oil

Heat the oven to 450 F. Lightly oil a baking sheet.

Spread the grated potatoes, onions and shallots on a clean dish towel or a large piece of cheesecloth. Roll up the towel and squeeze over the sink to extract as much liquid as possible from the mixture. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

Add the flour, salt and pepper, then toss to mix well and coat the vegetables with the dry ingredients. Add the beaten egg and 2 teaspoons of the oil to the potato mixture, then toss well.

In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil.

Using a 1/4 cup measure to scoop the potato mixture, make 4 latkes in the skillet. Use a spatula to flatten each mound of potato batter into a 3-inch pancake. Cook until crispy and lightly brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Transfer the latkes to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat using the remaining oil and potato mixture to fry 2 more batches.

When all of the latkes are fried and arranged on the baking sheet, place the sheet in the oven and bake until the latkes are crispy and hot, about 10 minutes.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 89 calories; 25 calories from fat; 3 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 21 mg cholesterol; 13 g carbohydrate; 2 g protein; 1 g fiber; 205 mg sodium.