Glaciers of the last Ice Age significantly shaped the land less than 20,000 years ago. Rivers of ice carved out valleys, chiseled away mountain peaks, and formed lakes and waterfalls, leaving behind a masterpiece known today as Glacier National Park.
As the ice retreated some 10,000 years ago, it was followed by humans coming down from the north in search of new hunting grounds.
These flowing fields of snow left in their wake the North Fork of the Flathead, a glacial stream that creates the western boundary of Glacier National Park. Its headwaters begin in British Columbia, flowing 31 miles before crossing into Montana.
The North Fork is a favorite midsummer's journey for me and my 5-year-old daughter Jasmine. This summer we launched two rafts and two kayaks at the Canadian border with our friends, the Meyers, their children (Lucas and Enrya) and Grandma Penny.
The kids played hopscotch between the Canadian and US border while we loaded the rafts with essentials. Together we set off for a 59-mile voyage.
Carried by an emerald green ribbon of water, we floated through a broad river valley, past meadows blooming with wildflowers, and between thick evergreen forests. The river's swift current--intermittent with whitewater -- meandered around islands and past rushing tributaries.
The jagged eastern skyline stood grand. Snow-capped peaks towered against a deep blue sky. Translucent waters unveiled a rainbow bed of river rocks, each uniquely designed jewels of nature.
The children were captivated by the wildlife and fairy-tale scenery. New discoveries awaited around each twist of the river.
Some banks were steep, adorned with vertical waterfalls and pockets of elaborate vegetation. Jasmine enjoyed the hundreds of butterflies attracted to these lush hanging gardens. Lucas was intrigued by the bald eagles soaring above and the young moose that swam across the river in front of his boat, while Enrya scanned the shore for grizzly bears.
At camp, the children played in the sand, collected rocks, and built butterfly nursing homes. Days were warm and full of sunshine, and brisk nights were accompanied by a golden moon.
Early one morning Grandma Penny caught a trout. The kids all huddled around curiously as it was cleaned, cooked and then eaten. This was a great lesson in the many gifts nature provides.
Some parts of the forest were bursting with huckleberries and other edible flora. For thousands of years Native Americans have known of the fertile habitat along the North Fork River. Plant dependent, nomadic tribes ventured here to harvest berries, roots and lichen. This abundant river valley was sacred to indigenous people who relied on the land for survival.
The North Fork lies in a globally significant region which harbors the greatest diversity of plants and animals in the Rocky Mountains. The river's unique climate allows species to flourish.
It felt as if the spirit of life was swirling all around. Birth and rebirth, the circle of life, all evident in the dynamic path the North Fork cuts through the Montana wilderness.
We float past burnt forest, vibrant with new green undergrowth. Without natural fire cycles, some plant species would disappear beneath the forest canopy. Many animals thrive on the new vegetation.
Although protected in the U.S., this pristine river is threatened by a recently proposed coal bed methane project in Canada just 8 miles over the border. Pollution won't stop there. Hopefully this rare and delicate ecosystem will be protected for future generations.
After four days of traveling down these life-sustaining waters, we arrived at our takeout just beyond the confluence of the Middle Fork River.
Some say the mountains formed the rivers and the rivers formed the people. Throughout the course of time, anyone who has journeyed down this majestic river may agree, for the wild and free spirit of the North Fork is unforgettable.
Mariah Davis is the founder of Adventures Unlimited. For information visit www.adventuresmt.org
Posted in Recreation on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:00 am Updated: 10:46 am.
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