JACKSON - As I watched the swirling snow puffs fall around me and the wind-whipped steam rise in waves from the near-empty pool, I again had to ask myself a question so often prompted by my Montana outdoors experiences:

Why the heck hadn't I done this before?

I know, I know - shame on me. Four years in the Treasure State, and I hadn't yet tried one of the land's true gems: hot springs.

The Jackson Hot Springs Lodge, west of Dillon and south of Wisdom, broke the seal.

Many worthy springs bubble up from cracks in the earth near Helena, and I intend to soak in as many as possible, but the spacious 1950s lodge in the Big Hole Valley will always hold a favored place for me.

The day begins with a phenomenal drive through the valley, with excellent views of the snowcapped Pioneer Mountains. It seemed darn near every type of country visible in western Montana could be seen here - narrow river canyons, rolling foothills, wide valleys, big river rocks and more.

Then, after about a 2.5 hours' drive from Helena, a wide spot in the road holds the little cow town of Jackson and the old lodge.

At the actual spring, the water steams at 140 degrees - William Clark cooked several cuts of meat here in 1806 - but of course the pool holds cooler water, piped in from the source. The place has a homey feel - we were lucky enough to travel there on a Monday, and our fellow soakers included the owner's family and children, along with a couple on a getaway and a traveler spending the night.

The main lodge is a visual treat itself, with dozens of trophy mounts lining the balconies. An Ohio native, I didn't see many elk mounts growing up, but the Jackson Lodge has the most impressive bull I've seen since moving here. He's flanked by two monster caribou and two quick-looking African creatures. A grouchy Cape Ox glowers over the back bar. A large fireplace warms the place on cool evenings.

The Caesars are magnificently tasty, and the bartenders are friendly and talented. The jukebox selections are classic and varied, and the shuffleboard table is a wonderful piece of gaming equipment.

The accommodations were comfortable, and we opted into a fireplace cabin - one of several choices the lodge offers. The cabins have multiple beds for families, and some also have separate bedrooms.

Massage therapy and spa treatments are available by appointment.

I've heard the dining room, open from 5 to 9 p.m., is a true treat, but an inadvertently waterborne cell phone meant my friend and I weren't the best clock-watchers - so we missed dinner and instead ate leftovers we'd brought along.

No matter - there are no worries in Jackson. Just a relaxing soak in the steam.

Getting there

Take Interstate 15 south past Butte and south of the I-90 junction, heading toward Dillon. Take the Highway 43 exit west at Divide, then head south on Highway 278 at Wisdom. It's about 160 miles one-way. For more information or to make reservations, call (406) 834-3151 or follow the link in this story online at helenair.com.