Spend a winter weekend at a Forest Service cabin, and explore the beauty of the season

MOOSE LAKE CABIN -- As I worked my way around the bend, traipsing through foot-deep snow with another load of supplies, our cabin came into view. Smoke drifted from the chimney, candles lit the windows and the night's first star shone above in the glowing dusk.

My first winter weekend in a U.S. Forest Service cabin was beginning, and I paused for a moment (meat would soon be on the skillet) to take in the view.

The Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness and miles of quiet trails lay south, and we had brought cross-country skis, snowshoes and cameras for a weekend of exploration. Wolves had been sighted nearby, and I was chomping at the bit for my first up-close view of a moose.

Solitude can certainly be a pleasure, but I spent my weekend with a friend, which made this mini-vacation even more enjoyable -- and affordable.

The government operates 103 rental cabins and lookouts in the Big Sky State, and while the prices and ease of access vary, the two of us paid for the two-night stay -- lodging, fuel, food and spirits -- for about $130 combined. There are several cabins in the Helena area, and a number within easy driving distance.

A little planning, along with a healthy patience to deal with any unexpected circumstances, can make for a phenomenal cabin-camping experience. Some cabins and lookouts are large enough for groups of eight, but stargazing and warm fires also make this a great romantic getaway for couples.

Later that first night, I stepped outside the log walls and marveled at the Milky Way's bright arc overhead, the ancient scattered light completing its long journey into my wide eyes. Rock Creek's middle fork hissed through the darkness, the drifting constellations' only soundtrack.

I'll have to admit I was less enthusiastic the next morning, when shortly after daybreak I awoke to find the woodstove full of gray ashes. The thermometer outside the window read

2 degrees.

But it was easy enough to coax new flames from the kindling, and as I stepped outside to check the cooler -- I found the cream freezing and worried about the eggs -- the blazing dawn illuminated a cobalt sky and a world coated with hoarfrost. Every surface had grown flakes of ice in the night. Even the snowdrifts acted as crystal farms, sporting pale beards.

I strapped on the snowshoes and grabbed the camera for a jaunt by the creek. After exhausting the good morning light, I returned to a breakfast of cowboy bacon, eggs, hash browns and black coffee. Yum.

Good food is crucial, but keep it simple. Think comfort food. Throw lots of good stuff into a pot. Fry up some burgers. Bring easy lunch fixings for the trail. On the second night, we ate delicious chili and cornbread, which was cooked on the stovetop in a cast-iron pan.

The two big challenges of cooking on the woodstove are judging the temperature and keeping the heat constant. Also, it's easy to get something boiling on the stovetop, but difficult to simmer, so keep that in mind when picking a menu.

The first morning's dead fire taught me how to work the woodstove for heat during a long night. For a better shot at a warm wakeup, get the fire roaring hot before bedtime and then close the vents most of the way, allowing the logs to burn slowly through the night.

We planned the trip about three days beforehand, reserved the cabin and packed supplies -- but our experience wasn't necessarily typical. Some cabins and lookouts are reserved weeks or months in advance. For complete listings and availability, follow the link in this story online at helenair.com.

Cabins rent for between $20 and $45 per night, though fees are added into the total bill. The rental Web site has information on each of the available cabins, but call the nearest ranger office to get up-to-date information on the cabin's condition and on-hand supplies.

The ranger also will provide the combination for the lock on the gate of the door. Of course it seems like one of those things that goes without saying -- but remember to bring the combination when leaving town. Program it into a cell phone, share it with a fellow traveler or tattoo the thing somewhere. It's important.

The Moose Lake Cabin came complete with a stocked woodshed and ax, but firewood availability varies from cabin to cabin. We had a modern outhouse a few hundred feet from the door, but facilities also vary among the available rentals.

Our cabin was stocked with pots, pans, dishes, silverware and plenty of matches, though we had brought our own. Some rentals won't have as many supplies, and it's best to bring the basics along.

Winter weather adds some challenges and some benefits to the cabin experience.

We moved the cooler in and out of the cabin to keep the food from alternately freezing or getting too warm. We also arrived to find the 300-yard driveway leading to the cabin unplowed and impassable, so we had to haul everything on foot and snowshoe.

On the other hand, we were able to haul in less water because plenty of snow was available to melt for cleaning. We also didn't have to buy ice to keep our beer cold.

Thinking ahead is crucial, even during the trip. For instance, find or cut kindling before heading out for a day's worth of recreation, ensuring a quick fire-start in the afternoon. Cut enough wood to last through morning, and it's a nice gesture to chop a little for the next tenants.

Topographic maps are available at sporting goods stores across town. At a price of $6, it's not worth passing one up. Ask the ranger for the name of the quadrant that includes the cabin or lookout before beginning to search for the map.

After that first morning's breakfast, we jumped in the truck and drove south toward the wilderness area. The road had been plowed for a few miles, and when we reached the end of the plowed section, we strapped on the skis for several hours of cross-country fun. The snow was great and revealed a set of moose tracks, but no big game. And no sign of the wolves.

The second morning, after packing everything out -- and realizing we should have stayed three nights, giving us two full days to explore (a lesson I'll remember next time) -- we headed up a ridge across from the cabin. Soon we left the main trail, following the blown-over tracks of some other cross-country skier who'd broken snow through young evergreen stands.

While my fellow explorer marched onward, I stopped to check a set of tracks. They were old and hard to discern, but I knew what they weren't. A few hundred yards farther, I found a fresh set, and this time the animal had taken a few steps atop the snow before breaking through. I took a few photos for verification, and we decided to head back.

Crossing tracks with a lone wolf seemed the proper time to end our adventure.

For a complete listing of cabins and reservation information Click here to learn more.