n Tiny trout town on Missouri bustles every summer

Craig makes hay while the fish fly

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CRAIG, Mont. (AP) -- The midafternoon heat is intense in this little town and the fishing is a little slow, but Mike Bushly is still upbeat.

There's air conditioning inside The Trout Shop, an emporium loaded with cool fishing stuff -- fly rods, vests, waders, flies, ventilated clothing and a well-stocked deli offering drinks, sandwiches and chilled salads. Even the thick fleece-lined jackets have a perverse retail appeal.

And Bushly has plenty more reasons not to sweat. The shop and the small community that surrounds it are awash in anglers ready to spend cold cash chasing big trout.

''This is our Christmas right now,'' Bushly said.

While the stretch of the Missouri River between Holter Dam and Cascade lures plenty of Montanans through the year, the summer months bring anglers from all over the United States and around the world to the broad, cool river.

A group of anglers from France just wrapped up seven days of fishing on the Missouri.

''We've got two people right now from Denmark,'' said Bushly. ''We get people from Ireland and England. We get a lot of Japanese.''

The international flavor flows out the door of The Trout Shop and across the parking lot to the new two-story red building housing CrossCurrents, which also sells fishing gear and like its nearby competitor, provides boats, guides and lodging.

''In the summer months, it's mostly out-of-staters,'' said CrossCurrents owner Chris Strainer. But we have people travel from all over the world to fish this river.''

A narrow swath of trees and rooftops wedged between the Missouri River and Interstate 15, Craig represents an interesting slice of economic geography.

The unincorporated burg hasn't had a post office since 1953 and the nearest gas station is in Wolf Creek, about nine miles west on Interstate 15.

But with The Trout Shop and CrossCurrents, there are two sizable fishing/lodging operations and an upscale restaurant catering largely to visiting anglers.

Craig got an early boost from a long-gone railroad, and hills around town are still dotted with cattle, but it's clear that this a trout town.

''The fly-fishing industry is everything here,'' said John Heckert, who with wife Melanie leased the Izaak's restaurant from owner Pat Hunter in the spring. ''We do get some tourists off the interstate but I'd say 90 percent of our business is fishermen.''

Strainer, the CrossCurrents owner, offers a similar economic assessment of Craig, which has a few retirees and maybe a handful of folks who commute to jobs in Great Falls or Helena.

A glance down Bridge Street offers a distinct trout theme, with the exception of a small building housing a law office and the Craig Bar, which offers small-town tavern ambiance.

''It's a great little town,'' said Strainer, ''Overall, a great community.''

While Craig has yet to develop the cachet of say Ennis, on southwest Montana's Madison River, it's not a secret among serious anglers and guides. When other Montana rivers are high and muddy or low and warm, the Missouri downstream from Holter Dam offers consistent flows and fishing, experts say.

And having a trout-based economy is a good thing in the eyes of Strainer, Bushly and Heckert. Even to economists, there is a promising future in fishing and river-based recreation.

In 2005, the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks surveyed anglers about how much money they spend pursuing their pastime, said Rob Brooks, who studies economics for the department.

For Montana fishers, the average spending is $40.43 per day, the survey showed. But for nonresident anglers, the average daily spending jumped to $211 per day.

That figure, Brooks notes, includes transportation, food, lodging, possible guide fees and other expenses. It doesn't include license fees or what economists call ''durable items'' such as fly rods or waders that can be used elsewhere.

If the $211 per day figure paints an accurate picture, fly-fishing types appear to be more valuable economically than other nonresident visitors. Figures from the Institute for Tourism and Recreation Research in Missoula show that the average vacationer spends about $146 per day in the state.

The commercial mix in Craig is a clear reflection of priorities of its visitors, notes Bushly, who has managed the Trout Shop for the past four years.

''These guys are all pretty hardcore,'' he said. ''They fish, sleep, and get up and do it again.''

Most do find time to eat. The Trout Shop has a deli and offers some meals to its guests. But Heckert is betting that famished anglers will have no problem finding their way to Izaak's.

So far, business has been solid.

''I like fly fishing,'' Heckert admitted. He said his former restaurant near Missoula, ''even though it was right by the Blackfoot, it wasn't driven by fly fishing like this place.''

And he likes what anglers bring to Izaak's, notably an appetite and a wallet. While the restaurant serves burgers and Reuben sandwiches, demand for a slab of Montana flavor has been strong.

''The buffalo ribeye has been huge,'' said Heckert. ''Our prime rib goes well. ...

''Fly fishermen have money,'' he said. ''That's the bottom line. They look at our wine list and buy the most expensive bottle. Everybody's on vacation. It's a big party to these people.''

There are some less rosy economic realities to doing business in Craig. Housing is hard to come by. Homes that hit the market may end up as fishing retreats or be bought by outfitters who convert them to lodging for guests.

The Trout Shop, which has operated in Craig for 17 years, offers lodging ranging from $75 per night to up $500, for a home that sleeps six.

CrossCurrents had added lodging units in its new building, a part of the business to be known as the Fish Inn, when Strainer finds time to hang the sign.

The fishing business has clearly netted jobs in Craig. The Trout Shop has 23 employees, while Izaak's has 12. Heckert would like to hire a couple more but can't find help.

''The biggest problem I've faced is staffing,'' he said. ''I don't have enough people.''

And there's one other little detail that throws a wrinkle into the trout-fed bonanza.

Come fall, The Trout Shop's payroll will drop from 23 to four, including Bushly and the two owners of the business, Jerry Lappier and Chris Goodman.

''After October, it really slows down,'' Bushly said. ''There is nothing going on here in the winter. If you don't make it in June, July and August, you won't make it through the winter.''

Still, the Trout Shop and CrossCurrents stay open year-round, booking trips, selling merchandise via the Internet or mail order and planning for the busy season.

Heckert, the newcomer, is aware of the seasonal nature of life in the river community.

''We will probably end up closing in January and February,'' he said.

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